Despite the name, Ballard’s Mean Sandwich is oh so nice.

Resting in the shade of the Ballard bridge and adjacent to popular cyclist spot Peddler Brewing Company, Mean Sandwich was quietly opened in 2016 and has since earned a rep for quirkiness and complex, unique sandwiches.

Married couple Alex and Kevin Pemoulie left New Jersey and a tasting-plate restaurant they owned there for Alex’s hometown of Seattle, where she has embraced local ingredients in the food they have created.

The key and obvious choice is the Mean Sandwich, which runs a Ballard-typical $12. It’s a rainbow, featuring fuchsia corned beef, pickled red cabbage, stadium-bright yellow mustard and green mint with a drizzle of maple syrup.

And it works. It’s complicated, with multiple flavors in every bite, but nothing off putting or so competing that it becomes a muddled mess.

The Midnight at the Oasis sandwich, at just $9 is a good deal for a filling meal. Served in falafel with hummus, harissa beets, Persian pickles and “white sauce,” it’s a fun take on Middle Eastern food.

With a sardine sandwich, a chicken cutlet and mozzarella sandwich and a steak tartare sandwich, there is plenty for adventurous carnivores at the bright, airy location.

Get the “skins and ins” as a side. The potato wedges are fried to a crispy, crunchy goodness.

Bay windows look out onto NW Leary Way, toward what can be considered a rather dodgy area of Ballard. But the aesthetic is clean and minimalist. An excellent but small selection of beer is on tap, and the staff is friendly, even when (as I did) you go the day after someone had broken in and made off with the cash from the till.

They’ve since strengthened the locks, and the business remains relatively low key and not too pricey for the area.