Since opening in 2013, Matt Storm’s The Masonry in Queen Anne has been one of the best places in all of Seattle to grab a pizza and beer.

The recent expansion to Fremont’s 34th Street is no exception. Only this time, you might be able to find a seat.

While the dungeon-like, claustrophobic atmosphere of the Roy Street location is gone, fired pizzas and delectable snacks to pair with a well-curated beer list that leans on wild ales, saisons and other farmhouse variants are still around.

Bartenders spin a wicked selection of vinyl and for those who sit all day at work, there are skeeball and pinball machines to get moving.

An “Executive Meatball Lounge” is available for private parties as well, so there’s really no reason to ever leave.

I paired the house sausage pizza with a Jester King saison, a peppery farmhouse ale from Austin, Texas.

The pizza was charred just enough on the bottom and top from the massive wood-burning oven, and the huge chunks of house-made Italian sausage, packed with fennel looked inviting from the get-go.

A nutty fontina cheese, shallots with a slight bite and plenty of olive oil and garlic atop a tomato sauce base and slightly chewy thin crust rounded out the pie.

The expanded space in the Fremont location allows chef Lucas Neve (formerly of Cafe Lago) to do things they couldn’t fit in the tiny Queen Anne space, like for one, expand the tight menu to include things like clams in beer.

Fresh, juicy Taylor Farms Shellfish are cooked in a savory broth of hefeweizen, leek, more fennel, fingerling potatoes and saffron, paired with some dense, buttery focaccia bread.

While the shellfish were superb and the bread soaked up the liquid like a delicious sponge, I couldn’t help but feel the broth itself a tad bland. While offering plenty of umami taste, it just needed an extra push to get it over the top.

The meatballs have long been acclaimed as one of the best drinking snacks in the city (by me, but still) and the tender, spicy goodness remains.

But while the food is definitely a major focus point at both Masonry locations, people come from around the country to events like Storm’s Seattle Farmhouse Festival for the beer.

I paired the clams with Foggier Window, a double IPA from the wonderful Monkish Brewing Company out of Torrance, California. A juicy, hazy peach of a beer, it still managed to come across dry despite the aforementioned juiciness, proving once and for all, I know nothing about beer.

A glorious taplist of beers from around the country (some of which, like Anchorage and Jolly Pumpkin, are exclusives thanks to Storm’s reputation and collaborations in the beer community) range from light and subtle to intense barleywines and bottles that will set you back quite a few bucks.

Washington brewers such as Holy Mountain, Skookum and E9 hold down the list if you get tired of Belgians and want to drink local. But why limit yourself?

The large windows looking out onto North 34th Street let in a gorgeous amount of natural light, and the aesthetic of the joint is at times both spartan and homey.


The Masonry Fremont is located at 730 N 34th St.